Chroniques d'une photographe,specialiste des droits humains en Palestine et ailleurs, Chronicles of a French photographer, specialist in human rights, in Palestine and elsewhere
Palestinian women at the forefront of the demonstrations in Nabi Saleh.
For weeks, if not months, I wanted to go back to the Nabi Saleh weekly demonstration. But a journey to Nabi Saleh is a whole exhausting mission and the demonstration is known to be very long. Every Friday, the village comes under siege. The Israeli army entirely closes down the village from morning to night. Demonstrators need to arrive the day before, or very early in the morning before 8am while others must find they way through the mountains, hoping that they would not encounter any Israeli soldiers among the trees.
Nabi Saleh is a very small village of only a few hundreds inhabitants. The demonstrations started in 2009, when settlers from the nearby illegal settlement of Halamish took control over the natural spring near the village and prevented Palestinians accessing their lands. Since then, the repression of the army has been horrendous, using various tactics including night raids, arrests (the main leader of the protest, Bassem Tamimi is now in Israel custody), showering the whole village with tear gas and spreading the “skunk” (a noxious chemicals-based liquid which carries an awful smell) directly on houses, systematic violence used against unarmed protestors, including women (see for example the shocking video made by Israeli human rights organization B'Tselem).
In order to be as early as possible in the village, I had to spend the night in Ramallah. From there, some cars were organized for protesters at 8am. In the service (collective taxi), I found myself mostly with young Palestinian women activists, some of them aged no more than 17 year old. It was great to talk to them, they were very open. Most of them have started to join the protests not so long ago and were coming even without their parents knowing. One of them writes a blog, both in English and Arabic. It was truly refreshing to meet them, not that in demonstrations you cannot find any women. But it is quite rare to see some young Palestinian women coming from outside the village join the local protest in solidarity. I asked them how they began being involved. One told me that she began watching the videos of Nabi Saleh and just one day, she decided that she should not be only watching but that she had to go while another one said she started to hear about it through facebook. Another one told me that she began to be involved through the youth movement which emerged at the beginning of this year. In Ramallah they sat up a tent of protest demanding, among other things, a government of reconciliation. She then met the activists from Nabi Saleh who came to support them in their struggle. In response, she and others went to Nabi Saleh, and “once you start coming, you cannot stop”, she told me. I certainly know what she was talking about.
When we reached Nabi Saleh, the main entrance was already closed by a gate, so we had to drive further, got off the service and climbed up the hill. We were lucky, the Israeli soldiers were not at sight so we just had to do a 15 minute-walk. For other activists who arrived a bit later, it would be a one hour and an half tedious walk under a burning sun through the mountains. When we reached the village, we met some Palestinian activists who arrived the day before and they showed us the “popular resistance flotilla” mock ship that was built for the demonstration. It looked great, it was a few meters long and carried the flags of several countries, all on wheels. There were still several hours before the demonstration so I joined along the group of Palestinian girls who went to have breakfast with one of the figures of the popular protest, Nariman Tamimi who works with B'Tselem and documents all the demonstrations. She is the wife of Bassem who had been arrested. We shared a wonderful breakfast. One of the Palestinian blogger made an interview with Nariman. But the relaxed atmosphere was a bit tarnished after a phone call to one of the Palestinian young activist announcing her that one of her friends, also a young Palestinian activist in her 20s was arrested at a checkpoint on her way to Nabi Saleh. Apparently the Israeli soldiers were especially looking for her as they had her family name. She was blindfolded and handcuffed..The others in the taxi were put aside for further investigation. One of the Palestinian young activist seemed especially upset. She told me: 'we are friends but I never met her, we were supposed to meet today for the first time”.
Around 11am, long before the protests, Israeli military trucks passed through the village as provocation. Finally after 1pm the demonstration started, with some Palestinians, Israelis and internationals. The Israeli soldiers were already in place at the end of the main street. The boat was pushed down but just a few meters were made before we were showered by scores of tear gas canisters, some of them shot at the level of the heads. Demonstrators ran for cover on the sides of the street. I walked down to join the photographers who were already in place next to the Israeli soldiers. The village was under siege. The Nabi Saleh flotilla boat was still pushed by a few brave demonstrators, including an old Palestinian woman who managed to push it until just a few meters in front of the soldiers. As she was interviewed, she was attacked by sound bombs and tear gas, and so were the journalists around her. The Israeli soldiers were just shooting at whoever dared to walk in the street, which is just to remind- THEIR STREET. Tear gas canisters were also shot directly at houses, clearly a form of collective punishment according to international law. Tear gas canisters and sound bombs were also thrown among the legs of the journalists.
I went back up to the side of the protesters who were mainly taking cover behind walls or inside houses. At one stage I wanted to go down again to the sides of the soldiers but I was directly aimed at and the tear gas canister passed not far from my head. So I retreat. Finally it was probably better as at this stage most photographers were already gone and one of the only ones who stayed next to the soldiers to monitor them- an Israeli activist working for B'Tselem- was subsequently detained for hours and prevented to film.
I was already exhausted after documenting hours of confrontations but this was far from over.
To make it short for the rest of the day, the demonstrators tried to walk down from another direction, but were again heavily attacked by tear gas canisters. The Israeli soldiers invaded twice the center of village, looking for activists. We hided in an house and the soldiers this time did not bother to go inside. Some of them took position of one the roof. Demonstrations- however dramatic they can be- are not devoid of sometimes funny moments. When the soldiers were walking back to their original position, they received from the top floor of an house an unexploded tear gas canister, which triggered cheering, laughing and applause. Seeing the Israeli soldiers running away from tear gas was quite a delightful scene for the people who receive on their heads dozens of tear gas canisters weeks after weeks. Finally after hours of siege, the Israeli soldiers seemed ready to go. Feeling no shame whatsoever, they still took the time to have a picnic at the entrance of the village. As the jeeps were driving away, Palestinian youth coming from nowhere chased the jeeps and threw stones at them, a way to tell the soldiers that, as occupiers and oppressors, they are not welcomed in their village...one jeep stopped and some more tear gas canisters were again shot at heads level before leaving for good (at least for this day).
It was now time for sunset and rest. I still had a journey of at least three hours back to Bethlehem. As the service drove away, we saw that there were still some clashes at the very end of the village and we went through a cloud of tear gas. We hold our breathe and made it through.
The next day, I could barely walk, and spent most of the day resting. I was therefore so impressed when I heard that there was another surprised demonstration in Nabi Saleh. The demonstrators, together with some Palestinians coming from different villages, including from Bil'in, Israelis and internationals, managed to go down very near to the spring which was taken by the settlers. Respect for those who never give up.
I am glad I went back to Nabi Saleh and met all these amazing activists, and this new generation of young women activists. I bet more of them will join and will be a leading force and voice of the popular struggle.
I want to finish with the strong words of Bassem Tamimi who addressed Israel’s Ofer military court during his trial for organizing protests in the West Bank village of Nabi Saleh:
“The civil nature of our actions is the light that will overcome the darkness of the Occupation, bringing a dawn of freedom that will warm the cold wrists in chains, sweep despair from the soul and end decades of oppression.”
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Amie Anne, gaffe à la typo dans le titre : "nebi saHeh"Fantastique, bon sang ! le courage et la détermination de ces hommes et femmes, et des journalistes qui nous permettent de l'apprendre est somptueux.
Amie Anne, gaffe à la typo dans le titre : "nebi saHeh"
ReplyDeleteFantastique, bon sang ! le courage et la détermination de ces hommes et femmes, et des journalistes qui nous permettent de l'apprendre est somptueux.